Discovering the Alentejo

The Tagus River flows lazily westward from Spain across Portugal before reaching the Atlantic Ocean in Lisbon. This line of water provides the demarcation point between northern Portugal, the rural Alentejo region which constitutes a third of the country, and the Algarve in the south.

Alentejo literally means - beyond the Tagus (Além Tejo) and in this barely disturbed part of the country vast plains of undulating land play host to golden wheat fields, evergreen cork oak forests and shimmering silver grey olive groves. Sheep, goats and cattle, shelter from the arid summer heat in the shade of olive branches until the shepherds move the animals, in the cool of the evening, to pastures new.

However, EU money has recently funded some much needed road development and the A22 which now crosses the Algarve east to west and the A2 which goes from the Algarve to Lisbon, have opened up the Alentejo as never before.

The sophisticated buzz of the Algarve is a mere stone’s throw away and yet as you head north from Faro Airport, passing through the Caldeirão mountain range, you could be forgiven for thinking you had entered a different century. Here the whitewashed farmhouses are the only things to interrupt the rural landscape as the amiable Alentejanos farm their land oblivious to the pace of life elsewhere.

But make no mistake this is no equivalent to the chocolate box appeal of France’s Dordogne or Italy’s picture postcard Tuscany. To truly appreciate the rugged rural beauty of the Alentejo you need time to adjust, to ‘get your eye’, as an artist would say. Then, and only then, you see beneath the veneer and can appreciate the spectacular scenery, the quaint towns, and a relaxed philosophy of life which attracts visitors looking for a complete change in pace and focus.

The Alentejo is steeped in history from Portugal’s diverse past. The Romans, Moors, Visigoths and Christians all left their mark with castles, churches, chapels and convents bearing witness to Portugal’s former times.

The historical centres of Beja, Moura, Serpa, and Mértola are all worthy of a visit, each with fascinating architecture, local museums and traditional handicrafts. The walled city of Evora, is the third largest UNESCO World Heritage site after Rome and Athens. It boasts the remains of a Roman Temple to Diana, along with many magnificent churches all making it an historical gem.

The towns of Reguengos, Redondo and Vidigueira are well known for quintas with hectare upon hectare of vines, the grapes of which make a variety of excellent full bodied wines. Whilst the town of Monsaraz is not only the name of an excellent Alentejo wine, but one of the most picturesque villages to be found in Portugal.

Portugal is the world’s second largest exporter of marble or as it is referred to - white gold. The marble quarried in Estremoz and nearby Borba is either white or subtle to strong pink, whilst that found at the quarries in Viana is a green hue. As the stone is in such abundance it is not unusual to find it everywhere from door steps to shop facades; and in places such as Vila Viçosa, home to the last Portuguese Royal dynasty – the Dukes of Bragança - even the curb stones along the side of the road are made of marble.

Portalegre towards the north of the Alentejo, where the textile, tapestry and silk industries brought wealth in the 16th and 17th centuries, currently provides evidence of another great Portuguese industry, cork production. Here the bark of the cork oak trees stripped during the early summer months are brought to the cork factories to be transformed into a variety of products. With the decline in the humble cork bottle stopper, the Portuguese have diversified their trade and cork is being made into everything from cork flooring, wall coverings and wine coolers through to clothing. A fine cork apron or shirt is quite an unusual and tactile reminder of your visit.

The Pousadas of Portugal provide an excellent base from which to explore. Started in the 1940’s the Portuguese government established a network of state – run hotels providing “hospitality in keeping with the style and tradition of the region”. As a result you will find stunning Pousadas in locations throughout Portugal. Often these are converted convents, monasteries or old castles bringing with them a wealth of history and charm, personalised service and high degree of comfort and style.

As for local gastronomy, the region offers sturdy fare derived from its rural roots. There are an abundance of goat, sheep and cow’s milk cheeses; sausages and smoked ham; garlicky fish soups in which to soak the strong white bread; Porco Preto (black pig) arrives in many different guises the most popular being Porco Alentejano (pork with clams). Lamb stew is highly recommended and game – hares, rabbits or partridges – are also delicacies. Herbs are used liberally especially coriander, garlic and flat parsley. But save a space for the cakes, from Pastel de Nata which is unlike any custard tart you will ever have experienced, through to marzipan sweetmeats.

There are feasts, festas, fairs and markets; handicrafts such as traditional pottery, blankets, baskets, cork and leather items are all small reminders that this is a place worthy of your time; browse through it and gradually its secrets will unfold, but as with all good things, the Alentejo cannot be rushed.

TOURIST OFFICES:

Beja:
Rua Capitão João de Sousa.
25 – 7800 Beja.
Tel: + 351 284 311 913

Mértola:
Rua Alonso Gomes,
18 – 7750 Mértola.
Tel: + 351 286 612 573

Moura:
Largo de Santa Clara,
7860 Moura.
Tel:  + 351 285 251 375

Serpa:
Largo D Jorge de Melo,
2/3 – 7830 Serpa.
Tel: + 351 284 544 727

Vidigueira:
Piscinas Municipais,
7960 Vidigueira.
Tel:  +351 284 434 492.

POUSADAS:

Head Office:
Pousadas de Portugal,
Av. Santa Joana Princesa,
10,1749 -090 Lisboa.
Tel: +351 218 442 001
Fax: + 351 218 442 08 /7
E: guest@pousadas.pt

Pousada de Evora:
Loios
7000 -804 Evora
Tel: + 351 266 704 051

Pousada de Estramoz:
Rainha Santa Isabel,
7100 – 509 Estramoz
Tel: + 351 268 33 20 75

Pousada de Beja:
São Francisco,
7801 -901 Beja.
Tel: + 351 284 31 35 80

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